Baluchari Sarees – A New Look To A Tradition That Has Survived.

The Baluchari Saree is Bengal’s gift of art weave that has survived the test of time to emerge in its rejuvenated form. Brilliantly adapted to modern weaving techniques, the traditional art promises to flourish once more, given the enthusiastic response of the market and the support of its promoters.

Baluchari Saree or Baluchar Saree, is an art weave offering from Bengal.

A Baluchari Sari was traditionally worn by women from the upper class and landlord families in Bengal during festive occasions and weddings. Today it is widely worn in many parts of the country on various occasions, appreciated for its magnificent weave, attractive motifs, brilliant colours and thematic pallus.

Baluchari Sarees are made from silk. Silk brocade designs suited to the base colour, are decorated with attractive motifs. The appeal of the Baluchari Saree lies in its colour harmony and not contrast, of the pattern colours with the colour of the body fabric. Colours preferred are red, green, yellow, blue and their shades. Other colours are also fast seeking attention.

The Pallav or Pallu of the Baluchari Saree is adorned by mythological stories depicted on the walls of the terra cotta temples that the Malla rulers had built and are located in present day Bengal.

Historically, the Baluchari Saree has its roots in Bangladesh. One of the Nawabs of Bengal fascinated by the craftsmanship of the Baluchar Sari, brought the rudiments of the weaving form from Dhaka(Bangladesh) to Murshidabad (West Bengal) in the eighteenth century.

Baluchar village in the district, devoted in the practise of this weaving art, flourished, and the Saree got its name. Once, owing to the flooding of the village by the Ganges river, the industry was affected and shifted to Bishnupur in Bankura district. However the name of Baluchari stuck on and remains so till this day.

Bishnupur, patronized by the Malla Dynasty rulers for the continuation of this art, was itself affected later by the apathy of the British. Suffering a tremendous decline the Baluchar art almost died.

Post-independence revival by a person named Subho Thakur, through the weaving skills of Das, a weaver from Bishnupur and knowledgeable in this art form, restored the glory of this fine weave once again.

This time round the Baluchari Saree once hand-woven, was tried out on Jacquard looms and the success of the experiment is now for all to see in the current weaving method of this art weave.

The Baluchar sari making process is intricate. Silkworms bred for the purpose of producing raw silk yield the raw material. The yarn processing involves dipping the yarn in a solution of soda and soap, boiling and then dyeing it accordingly. The yarn is stretched in opposite directions to make the yarn crisper.

Weaving takes place on jacquard looms with intricate design motifs prepared with the method of cards being punched, coloured suitably and placed on the Jacquard arrangement.

The Malla dynasty rule had influenced motifs of depictions from the Indian epics Mahabharata and Ramayana. Today floral motifs are also very popular. Many figured patterns have also since been introduced.

Quality checks at every step in the various stages of the process have ensured retention in quality of the Baluchari Saree. Fineness, shine and durability have been and remain the hallmarks of the Baluchari Saree.

Generally taking close to two weeks earlier, it takes near about five to six days now for two workers in shifts, to weave a Baluchari Saree.

The Baluchari Sari has been awarded the Geographical indication label in India. Geographical Indication of Goods conveys an assurance of quality and distinctiveness which is essentially attributable to the fact of its origin in a defined geographical locality, region or country.

Modern Day trend of the increasing use of organic materials, has found its way into the experimental manufacture of the Baluchari Organic Sari. Fine blends of cotton with both banana fibres and bamboo shoots replace the silk yarn, while acidic dyes have been substituted with dyes made from extracts of fruits, vegetables, leaves, turmeric etc.

The Baluchari saree has won the Presidential award on two occasions for its weaving style and has been prominently displayed in international trade fairs.

Baluchari Sarees are preferred as soft and comfortable wear, for their fine weave and stylish looks.

Some popular themes of today as flower bunches, animals, court scenes of an earlier era, boat etc. adorning the Baluchari Saree make them most attractive and apt for a variety of occasions; be it wedding ceremonies, parties, grand functions, social gatherings or as corporate wear.

The author is a young lady, a freelance specializing in ethnic fabrics, more devoted to sarees. With a penchant for travelling at will and to ethnic destinations in particular, She could be contacted at press@unnatisilks.com or 040-64555251.