The style of woven Narayanpet silk sarees

The narayanpet is a town, assembly constituency and a municipality of 23 ward members council in Mahbubnagar district in Andhra Pradesh, India. The town specializes in handloom saree manufacturing. Narayanpet saree produces silk with checked body and a temple border. There is also work done in cotton but the town is well known for its silk output.

The production of the sarees can be dated back to 1630AD when Chattrapati Shivaji Maharaj was travelling across the narayanpet region, he set up camp narayanpet. He continued with his travels after a few day but left behind him a few weavers who started the production of the saree. Under the reign of Lokapalli sansathanam, the production of Narayanpet saree flourished and reached its peak in popularity.

Thus, the narayanpet region has a lot of Maharashtrian influence. It is still considered auspicious to wear a narayanpet saree in Maharashtra and it also madeas an offering to the goddess. The knowledge of manufacturing the product became a way of life of the inhabitants i.e. it is passed on from one generation to the other.

The narayanpet style is recognized by the square pattern throughout the saree on the rich silk cloth. The checks are in zari. The patterns themselves can be designed by the weavers on graph paper beforehand, and then extrapolated to the entirety of the cloth. The border is of a contrasting colour and is recognised by the temple border at its edges. Adding to the quality of the saris produced in Narayanpet is the weavers use of zari in the embroidery. It is often used in the borders, the pallu and throughout the sari itself, whenever called for.

Eight sarees are made together on one loom. Hence 56 yards is put at Once on the loom for weaving. The yarn is first boiled for 4-5 hrs in a liquor containing 100 gms caustic soda 50 gms soap, 50 gms soda ash made into 100 lits of soft water. After the boiling procedure is completed the cotton yarn is then processed for bleaching. It is mainly done to remove the natural color of the yarn and then will be easily dyed. Vegetable dyes are used for coloring the yarn in the required colours.

After dyeing the yarn is dried for one day and then put up on the charka to get the threads from the yarn. This producer is called the winding and then the threads are kept for warping and then put in the framework loom for drafting and denting to weave the sarees. Pedals are used on the loom to make designs on the sarees. A narayanpet cotton sarees takes a day for completing and a silk saree takes 3-4 days time to come out as a finished product.

The village was once well known for handloom silk products. They have flourishing power looms. Narayanpet handlooms are well known for the durability of the colors used in the yarn. The mixture of color gives the durability. The count used in weaving gives the softness and hardness of the fabric. Count means the number of threads used in the length and breadth for weaving known as warp and weft respectively. In narayanpet 80 by 80 count is used. The narayanpet sarees are hand woven. It requires approximately 2 to 3 days (depending on the variety of saree) of continuous efforts for weaving a saree.

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