Are Natural, Untreated Sapphire Engagement Rings Always Better?

Author: Lisa Jeeves

The majority of couples know that natural, untreated sapphires are the objective when it comes to sapphire engagement rings, but do they all know why? There are three primary reasons behind the desire for natural untreated sapphires: they are beautiful, rare and valuable.

Gemstones have been used in jewellery for centuries because of their connotations with beauty and wealth. It is the rarity of such gems that make sapphire engagement rings or any other kind of gemstone desirable. While many others things may be rare, such as coal, sapphires are valued because they are beautiful.

Many stones are now treated in order to enhance their colour, clarity and general appearance. However, while such processes may increase a stone’s beauty, they will not increase its value, but only make it more saleable. Many types of treatments performed on sapphires will not only alter their colour but also their clarity. However, the natural inclusions of sapphires should not always be regarded negatively, as in many cases it is a clear sign that the stone has never been treated. The fact that approximately 0.5-1% of sapphires that come from the ground are not treated makes untreated stones far more rare than the standard treated sapphires commonly sold. For something to be rare, it needs to be in its original condition and not an imitation.

People obviously expect some ‘treatment’ of gems, such as skilful cutting and polishing, in order to transform that dull lump of aluminium oxide crystals into a stunning blue sapphire engagement ring. Which produces the question: what types of enhancements are acceptable? Commonly used methods to enhance gemstones include heat and radiation, diffusion, oil and waxes, fracture-filling and laser-drilling. Furthermore, not all treatments are permanent, which can, in some cases, lead to faded colouring. This can cause a problem when you realise you were sold a previously worthless gray stone that was heated to give the appearance of a more valuable blue or yellow sapphire.

While it is easy to be critical of treated sapphires, without such enhancements, the number of sapphires of good colour would be so small that such gems would only be available to the wealthiest and most connected. If appearance is your only consideration when it comes to sapphire engagement rings, then you should definitely not rule out the possibility of acquiring a treated stone. However, those of you who do appreciate the natural beauty of untreated sapphires, thanks to their increasing rarity, must be prepared for the considerable price tag that comes attached to genuine pieces.

Frederick Holm is staff writer for of the F&L Designer Guides, compiled and written to help consumers choose a unique engagement ring design. From a diamond to a sapphire engagement ring from a princess cut to a platinum band, we have ideas and opinions covering all the options. Offering advice, tips and suggestions on how to choose that perfect ring, F&L will accompany you on every stage of your search to find the right designer.