Choosing the Perfect Thread for Sewing

The choice of stitching thread is important as it can impact the overall durability and aesthetics of your products. This short guide examines some of the most common types of stitching threads to help you determine the most suitable choice for your project.

Cotton

The all-around choice, cotton works well with fabrics made of natural fibres, including linen and cotton itself. It wears well and suits projects that may be exposed to high temperatures (such as clothes that require regular pressing or oven mitts). Cotton stitching thread comes in different weights, including heavy-duty ones, and most are blended with synthetic fibres to make them more versatile.

For example, the Dymax cotton thread is made from high-quality, long-staple cotton that has been specially treated under tension to enhance its shine and strength. This treatment process (known as mercerisation) also increases the thread's affinity to post-dyeing dyestuffs, making Dymax an excellent option for sewing untreated and mercerised 100% cotton fabrics. The thread has a smooth surface and a high lustre that results in beautiful seams. It consistently absorbs dye, producing the best colour results every time.

Polyester

Polyester offers reliable sewing performance and is an ideal choice for cost-effective projects. One of the best choices is the Coats Astra EcoVerde thread, which is made entirely from recycled staple spun polyester (SSP) and can be used on various recycled fabrics and materials. Astra adheres to the most stringent environmental and safety standards and is composed entirely of polyester. It produces sturdy and long-lasting seams that retain their appearance throughout the lifetime of the sewn product. Sewers favour this thread because it reduces machine downtime, improves productivity, and offers consistent sewing performance compared to regular SSP threads. It also has a high level of colour fastness and conforms to the most stringent class of STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®, which covers babywear.

Nylon

Nylon is a durable fibre that suits projects with sturdy materials like leather and canvas. As such, it is common to find nylon stitching thread on upholstery work. It comes in different weights, from delicate to thick, with the thinnest being incredibly soft and almost invisible.

Coats Aptan is a great example of superior nylon stitching thread. Lubricated, pre-stabilized, and made from continuous filament nylon 6.6, it has controlled stretch characteristics and a soft, low-friction finish that reduces the effects of needle heat while offering excellent abrasion resistance.

Compared to ordinary nylon 6.0 thread, Coats Aptan 6.6 nylon is 30% stronger, which means that it has a higher strength-to-fineness ratio, making it possible to create very fine seams in footwear and other applications. It also has higher strength and slightly higher elongation properties than typical apparel sewing threads made from polyester. And because it is treated with a specially formulated lubricant, it provides excellent frictional characteristics during high-speed sewing operations.

Even a slight failure in thread performance can lead to significant losses in material, equipment, garment engineering, and labour investments. This is why it’s important to source your stitching thread from reputable manufacturers.

Coats is a global leader in the production of threads and structural components for apparel and footwear and is also known for its innovative work in the field of performance materials. The world's top names in the apparel, footwear, automotive, telecoms, outdoor goods, and personal protection industries trust Coats to deliver innovative and sustainable solutions.

This UK-based company brings together expertise in talent, textiles, and technology to contribute towards creating a better and sustainable world. With a history of over 250 years and a proactive approach to meeting changing market requirements, Coats operates in around 50 countries, employs over 17,000 people, and serves customers across the globe.

About the Author:

Coats is the world’s leading industrial thread company. They are headquartered in the UK, with a workforce of 17,000 in 50 countries across six continents around the world. Coats provide complementary and value-adding products, services and software solutions to the Apparel & Footwear industries. Coats apply innovative techniques to develop high technology Performance Materials threads, yarns and fabrics in areas such as Transportation, Telecoms and Energy, and Personal Protection.

Our vision is to be the world’s leading industrial textiles company delivering innovation, digital solutions and sustainable value to all stakeholders.