Brides get a beach makeover

March 3, 2015

Author: Alyssa Holroyd

With destination weddings gaining popularity, designers are weaving an edgier trousseau for the bride who likes to soak up the sun

Indian weddings have evolved tremendously over the years. They have moved out of traditional mandaps to fancier pedestals on the beach or even precariously floating stages on the sea. The groom does not necessarily enter the venue on a horseback and neither does the bride arrive in a decorated doli. What was a constant until now however is the sartorial aspect of a wedding — traditional, elaborate and Indian. But with destination weddings becoming more and more popular, there is an emerging market for destination bridal wear that breaks away from the more traditional Indian aesthetics and sensibilities.

The India Beach Fashion Week held in Goa recently that dedicated an entire day for destination bridal fashion hints at how the industry is seriously weaving bridal garments that suit newer tastes — such as the sarini, for instance. The outfit blends the grace of a sari (without being six yards long) and the edginess of a bikini.

picture: plus size bridesmaid dresses

"The essence of beachwear is to enjoy oneself and not be very self-conscious. I try to take an Indian route where there is a lot of draping involved and use enough textiles to protect one’s modesty and cover one from the sun," says Anupama Dayal whose collection Masti was inspired by the bohemian vibes of Goa.

Another favourite with wedding bridal wear is a sari gown. As the name suggests, the outfit is a mix of the two garments that merge seamlessly with one another. A one-piece gown is made to resemble a sari by giving it a long fabric at the shoulder that apes a pallu. Not only does it look regal, but also makes the garment breezier — which is the essence of a destination wedding trousseau, says designer Shouger Merchant. "Destination bridal wear is experimental and edgy. Moreover, since destination weddings typically have fewer guests, the bride and groom and their families are less focussed on bling or how heavy the ensemble ought to be and instead are focussed on style, drape and flow of the garment. One also has to keep in mind the weather at the venue and accordingly design the sleeves, use thicker fabrics to suit a winter wedding and the opposite for a summer wedding. It is important to keep in mind convenience and use of easy breezy flowy fabrics and classic embellishments to allow mobility and comfort in addition to style," she says. As a fine example of sartorial blends, some of the sari gowns also flaunt the peplum giving the classic Indian six yards an instant Western makeover or sorts.

Sometimes, opting for alternative bridal wear may prove to be cheaper too — as compared to conventional designer lehenga-cholis of course. Since most popular destinations are at the beach — typically Goa domestically or Bali and Phuket internationally — it is essential to design clothes with lighter fabrics. Ahemadabad-based designer Nilesh Parashar makes them more destination-friendly by tweaking the fabrics. "Instead of using silks and georgettes, we use khadi and cotton with panels of chanderi to give the garment a more flamboyant look. Due to the fabrics used in destination wedding wear, the cost automatically comes down. While a silk lehenga choli (from my label) can cost up to Rs 1,20,000, the same thing in khadi and cotton would be priced around Rs 80, 000."

Another popular trend noted at the fashion week would be the use of sheer and net fabric for lehengas and dangerously high slits. Only for the non-conformist bride of course, these see-through garments are as bold as it gets. Designer duo Falguni and Shane Peacock’s collection characterised by see-through fabrics and risqué cuts is one such collection that blends elegance with bold cuts. Known for their elaborate designs otherwise, the two have played it down a notch for the destination bride. Says Falguni, "We always do heavy embellishments, but the destination trousseau is light and easy. Blue and pastel shades dominate the line instead of the bright pinks and dark reds. In terms of the fabrics, there’s a lot of tool and sheer." Is it a tad too experimental for a conventional affair though? "Not at all. Every piece is as wearable as the other," adds Falguni.