The Expert Guide to Unconventional Engagement Ring Cuts

More and more women are stepping away from traditional engagement ring cuts in favour of something a bit more unconventional. The round cut is by far the most popular (especially for diamonds), so our unusual list is as far from round as you can get.

Trilliant

Trilliant engagement ring cuts are a great unconventional alternative. Derived from the words triangle and brilliant, the trilliant is exactly that. The usual design has 43 facets, but more contemporary interpretations have as many as 50 facets - making for brilliant sparkle. If the cutter ensures that the triangle is equilateral the stone will return even more generous amounts of light and colour to the wearer, making it a dazzling and unusual choice. The trilliant is most commonly used for harder stones as the pointed edges are vulnerable. If the wearer is using a soft stone it is wiser to ask the cutter for a more rounded edge on the triangle. The trilliant cut is also used to brighten up darker stones, as the large number of facets allows light to reflect deeply.

Asscher

The asscher cut is true to the time it was most popular in – the 1920s. It is a clear representation of the Art Deco movement, with its unusual geometric design. The shape is a cross between a square and emerald cut, but modified for greater brilliance. The company that created the asscher cut was hit hard by the Great Depression and went out of business, so consequently the asscher disappeared for a long time and has only recently regained popularity after the design was updated in 2001. Renamed the Royal Asscher cut, it has 74 facets (24 more than the original) in order to compete with other brilliant modernised engagement ring cuts.

Heart

The heart shape has been popular for generations, although many people find this surprising due to the difficult nature of this cut. There are references to the heart shape dating as far back as the 1400s. As time and skill in stone cutting has progressed, the popularity of the heart shape has risen. Of all the engagement ring cuts it is a very particular choice, as it makes a bold statement and really changes the way the entire ring design looks. The usual number of facets for this shape is 59 and the basic shape of a heart shaped stone is rounded. This gives it the advantage of having a round pavilion, which instantly provides the stone with more brilliance. If you choose a heart cut you must really make sure that your cutter is skilled, as it is really down to them to bring out the most brilliance in a heart shaped stone.

Frederick Holm is staff writer for the F&L Designer Guides, compiled and written to help consumers choose a unique engagement ring design. From the best engagement ring cuts to precious metals and coloured stones, we have ideas and opinions covering all the options. Offering advice, tips and suggestions on how to choose that perfect ring, F&L will accompany you on every stage of your search to find the right designer.

Writer and Online Marketing Manager in London.