Marc Jacobs’ party dress code – bleached eyebrows in, flat shoes out, white horse optional

Do you have any "Patti [sic] Hearst Symbionese Liberation Army gear" in your wardrobe? How about "Gold lamé turbans" or some "platinum records" suitable for use "as headgear"?

If so, let’s hope you get an invite to Marc Jacobs’ upcoming New York fashion week party. The designer has just issued a dress code for the soiree, and it’s all pretty relaxed. Just 88 words in urgent caps, beginning: "STRICT DRESS TO KILL CODE WILL BE ENFORCED."

Demands include "FUR COATS OVER LINGERIE, LIP GLOSS, JERRY HALL SIDE-SWEPT HAIR, SEQUINS, SKY HIGH STILETTOS, MIRRORED AVIATORS, METAL MESH, COWL NECKLINE HALTERS, GLOSS-Y SKIN, SLITS, SHEER HAREM PANTS" and "MINI SKIRTS AND MUSCULAR LEGS" – presumably that last one is an either/or situation. Then things get complicated.

"ROGUE" and "ROLLERINA [sic] CHIC" are required. So is "GRACE JONES BUTCH REALNESS" and "EYES OF LAURA MARS CHIC". There will be absolutely "NO FLAT SHOES. NO MATTE SURFACES. NO NATURAL LOOKS." After that, it’s the simple finishing touches to consider: "BLEACHED EYEBROWS", and "RIDING IN ON A WHITE HORSE".

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Although hosted by Jacobs, the party will launch Gloss, a book about photographer Chris von Wangenheim, whose wilfully shocking images chronicled Studio 54 and the excesses of the 70s, which goes some way to explaining the dress code references.

Von Wangenheim famously photographed supermodel Gia Carangi naked behind a metal chain-link fence, worked with bleached-eyebrow pioneer Donna Jordan, and often collaborated with Grace Jones – who has used vinyl as a fascinator. Patty Hearst is the publishing heir who was kidnapped at the age of 19; her gun-toting, beret-clad photograph has become a recognisable image of the 1970s. Rollerena was an eccentrically dressed Studio 54 character.

The cult 1978 Faye Dunaway and Tommy Lee Jones thriller Eyes of Laura Marswas partly inspired by Von Wangenheim; its trash-chic aesthetic – all Lurex batwing sleeves and fuzzy fur coats – has often been cited by designers since. The photographer also had a thing about women on horses and worked with noted nightclub equestrian Bianca Jagger. (Do remember, for the record, that Jagger did not actually ride a horse into Studio 54; she simply mounted one that was already inside the venue – a significant difference that the animal rights campaigner hasrecently been at pains to point out.)

Given that Von Wangenheim’s back catalogue also includes blood splatters, guns and models being bitten by dobermans, guests are getting off fairly lightly.

Fashion has a history of issuing totally bizarre dress codes, though they usually veer towards the tedious and exclusive (last year’s Met Ball edict was "full evening dress and decorations", which basically means "wear all your medals"). This sounds more interesting. And given Jacobs’ own reputation for putting in the effort (like the time he went to a Christmas party dressed as an 8ft tall camel toe), we know whose outfit will be the highlight.

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