Classic vs contemporary style

Classic: The wingtip or brogue is the ultimate gentle-man’s shoe. Characterised by its emblematic toecap, which runs along the sides (the wings) and its punched hole detailing (the brogue), it is as distinctive as it is traditional. The name Oxford is sometimes added, too, although this refers to the method of lacing and not the shape.

Made from top-quality leather, these shoes are often handcrafted and, as is the case with these Santoni shoes, can require up to 100 steps to create. Other notable examples are by John Lobb Bootmaker and Harrys of London.

A pair of expensive leather shoes will complete a well-cut suit and elevate a badly cut one. They will also sit well with flat-fronted tapering trousers, cut short of the ankle for maximum shoe display. Ditto, rolled skinny jeans. They will look sensational with pleated-front trousers, too, especially when worn sockless for added Italian flair. Basically, a shoe this elegant can be worn with pretty much anything, barring shorts.

A brogue will be as much at home in the boardroom as it will at a restaurant, and remains the quintessential finishing touch for a gentleman’s outfit. Any modern dandy looking to up the dressing stakes should buy the most expensive brogues he can afford – they will last for years and age with grace. Contemporary: The high-end sneaker. This once-humble choice of footwear, beloved of athletes and teenagers, is now enjoying a renaissance and has been welcomed into the fashion fold. Once consigned to the outer reaches of acceptable dressing, it is now a valid sartorial choice, and has been spotted gracing the runways at Versace, Dior Homme and Lanvin.

Let us be straight about one thing: we are not ­discussing cheap supermarket trainers here. Instead, we are talking about beautifully made, well-cut, high-end sneakers, crafted from interesting fabrics and in sophisticated palettes. So forget the baggy-trousered skater look and think sharp outlines and clean silhouettes. You can match with skinny-fit trousers or shorts for everyday wear. However, for maximum impact, team with a slim-cut single-breasted suit, for an offbeat take on the traditional.

No longer consigned to the feet of gangly teenagers, a well-chosen, upscale sneaker will work for most age groups. For so much more than just comfort, these new-generation sneakers herald a new freedom from the rules of dressing for men. Available in a huge range of finishes, such as these neoprene and denim offerings from Dior Homme, they can be matched, or mismatched, to almost any outfit.

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