Aari embroidery work – exquisitely executed art on fabrics

Adornment is a traditional feature that most handloom sarees display. One such noticeably different, treasured craft since Mughal times is the Aari embroidery that calls for exemplary skill and craftsmanship, besides patience to take up a piece of work and complete it flawlessly.

Aari embroidery is known for the elaborate and highly refined, detailed floral motifs that adorn canvas fabrics like the Indian saree and salwar kameez. Once patronized by Mughal Royals it is today a much practiced skill for fashionable designer clothing. Regions known for Aari embroidery are Hyderabad, Lucknow, Delhi, Kutch, Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh.

Practised today by the cobbler community in some regions, it still remains a fine art, the designs followed are still primarily those prevailing in Mughal times, with newer additions. The work is still refined and quite flawless.

The main tool used in this style of embroidery is the aari, a hooked needle, from which the style gets its name. By using subtle gradations of color the figures and motifs in the designs can be highly representational. Aari embroidery is done by tightening the cloth to be embroidered upon on a khatla (cot) or adda frame and then doing the thread work on portions on the stretched cloth with an aari or crochet-hook like instrument. The stitch that forms resembles a chain stitch.

The actual embroidery involves pushing the needle through the fabric. From behind, thread is pushed into the hook. When the needle is pulled up again, it comes up with a loop. The next time, the needle goes through the loop and comes up with another loop through the previous loop. The same process is repeated. The stitches are very fine and small.

The main advantage of Aari is that it is very small and so intricate embroidery is possible. Beads, sequins or small spirals of gold or silver wire may also be used in between to add sparkle to the work. The whole process is done very fast, while maintaining perfect tension of the thread.

Several artisans may work on a single piece together. This relieves the tedium of a big piece of work, which may take a month to finish. It also allows slightly less experienced artisans to learn by working on the borders and less intricate motifs.

After the embroidery, the thread is beaten down or flattened using a wooden mallet from the top, with a hand held wooden anvil placed under the fabric. This settles the thread and gives the work a fuller and finished look. This process is only for zari work.

Aari work also involves the use of beads and a special needle known as muthia, which is similar to a crochet needle. Muthia is used for zardozi work, in which kallavattu, sitara (sequins), moti (pearl), salma are trapped. Some main varieties of this work are Dabka, Salma, Nakshi, Aara and Gota.

The work of the Aari craftsman ends here. The process of converting this piece of work into a finished product is done by other units. For making a garment, the fabric is sent to a tailoring unit or in the case of a sari or scarf it may need edging or surface finishing.

The difference between Aari and Zardozi work is in the method of embroidery and the material used. Zardozi uses dabka (a spring type of thread), katori, tikena, and sitara. Both methods are used to create fascinating designs.

Today Aari techniques are used in a wide range of bedcovers, cushion covers, purses and handbags, wall hangings, and also in garments. earlier men’s clothing also had embroidery on it. Today it is only for women’s clothing.

Over a period of time Aari work embroidery has lost a little of its original sheen and the work can sometimes involve coarse outcomes also.

Today you have a whole new line of lush soft Bhagalpuri Tussar silks in pastel colors with light booti prints (mainly mango) on the field of the saree. Contrast color borders with designs and bootis in aari work look splendid, while the pallu is designer magic with a variety of prints interspersed with aari embroidered motifs in a plethora of colors.

Unnati Silk Prints Pvt.Ltd., manufacturer, wholesaler, retailer of genuine handlooms since 1981. Provider of Indian ethnic varieties in sarees, salwar kameez, Kurtas and kurtis, ethnic essentials and special Indo western apparel. Prices are attractive wholesale and retail, dispatch is within 24 hours, free domestic retail, worldwide express shipping.

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I am currently a Manager with Unnati Silk Prints pvt ltd., a manufacturer, wholesaler, retailer of genuine handlooms in sarees, salwar kameez, Kurta, kurtis, ethnic essentials and special Indo western apparel. Prices attractive, shipping is worldwide