Ikat - A tradition of finesse and craftsmanship

Ikkat is a tying and dyeing technique involving the application of dye resistant bindings in a pre-determined pattern prior to the colouring of threads. The resulting creation when woven would expectedly surface in a lyrical colour extravaganza of finesse and precision.

The Ikat technique allows the weaver to prepare precisely the pattern of colors on the finished fabric by wrapping sections of the yarn with rubber strips before dipping it in select dyes. The rubber strips used for tying are a modern innovation replacing the traditional method of tying with coarse cotton thread. Bindings or substances resisting dye penetration are applied over the fibres in pre-determined patterns and then the threads are dyed.

Alteration of bindings and using more than one colour for dyeing produces multi-coloured thread effect. Removal of bindings and subsequent weaving of the threads would form the desired pattern woven in the fabric. The determining characteristic of ikat is the dyeing of patterns, by means of bindings, on the threads prior to weaving of the fabric. More the precision in the application of the resist bindings, finer would be the pattern formed.

Ikkat is classified into single-ikkat and double-ikat styles. Single Ikat fabric are created by interweaving tied and dyed warp with plain weft, or resisted weft yarns is inserted in plain weft. Double ikat involves the process of resisting on both warp and weft and then interlacing them to form intricate yet well composed patterns.

In warp ikat the dyeing of the threads would be of the warp (lengthwise lay of threads) across which the plain weft (breadth wise feed of thread across the warp) is led through. In weft ikat it would be vice versa. In double ikat both warp threads and weft threads would be dyed separately and then woven together.

In warp ikat the patterns are evident on the warp lay even before the weft is introduced. Ikat created by dyeing the warp is simple as compared to the making of either weft ikat or double ikat.

Patterns can be formed vertically, horizontally or diagonally. Weft ikat is preferred when it is the overall picture that is important, not the precision of the patterns. Double ikkat is even rarer and an example is the Patan Patola of Gujarat. Lesser accurate or poor imitation double ikkat versions are available in the market.

The artistic excellence of ikat prints can be gauged from its traditional motifs of flowers, dancing girl, creepers, leafs, parrot, animals, birds, mythological characters and geometrical patterns. Most of the ikkat printed sarees have repeated geometrical patterns of diamonds, circles, squares, lines etc.

Pochampally in Andhra Pradesh and Rajkot Patola weave of Gujarat are famous for their individual brand of ikkat sarees. Ikkat prints are trending and high fashion on a variety of fabrics like pure cotton, pure silk, georgette, crepe and supernet, to mention some. The Odisha Sambalpuri and BomkaiHandlooms have their own versions fairly similar but with nuances while the North East Assam and Meghalaya Handlooms sport their own kind.

Unnati Silk Prints Pvt.Ltd., manufacturer, wholesaler, retailer of genuine handlooms since 1981. Provider of Indian ethnic varieties in sarees, salwar kameez, Kurtas and kurtis, ethnic essentials and special Indo western apparel. Prices are attractive wholesale and retail, dispatch is within 24 hours, free domestic retail, worldwide express shipping.

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Website: https://www.unnatisilks.com/

I am currently a Manager with Unnati Silk Prints pvt ltd., a manufacturer, wholesaler, retailer of genuine handlooms in sarees, salwar kameez, Kurta, kurtis, ethnic essentials and special Indo western apparel. Prices attractive, shipping is worldwide