Recreating the magic of Traditional Weave of Baluchari Sarees

Traditional Jala looms for weaving Baluchari Sarees - Most of us are familiar with the Baluchari sarees of West Bengal with their gorgeous borders and pallav depicting stories or scenes from mythology and modern scenes. But what most of us do not know is that these are today's version of Baluchari sarees woven on jacquard looms. Historically the Baluchari Silk Sarees were woven using the jala tradition whose origin can be traced to the mid of 18th century. The last reference to the use of this traditional weaving method of silk sarees from Bengal is of a weaver by the name of Dubraj Das who died in early 1900 and with him died anera of an authentic and intricate weaving technique of jala.

Revival story of Weaving Baluchari Sarees on Jala Loom - The revival tale of authentic jala weaving technique for weaving traditional Baluchari sarees goes like this; an ardent lover of authentic Baluchari weave, Prabha Shah was persistent to revive the traditional weaving technique and so she visited the age old weaving center of Banaras with the panels of baluchari saree requesting them if they could recreate the ancient looms or jalas to make these. Of the samples handed out by her, only one master weaver from Banaras was able to succeed in recreating it and with him began the story of revival of weaving Baluchari sarees on the traditional jala looms. Today, Naseem Ahmed, the weaver who not only mastered the art but made it his world to continue to use the same traditional jala looms used centuries ago to weave traditional complex Baluchari sarees and panels as it was once done. He also won a National Award for it. But that is not how it all started! The tradition of using jala looms to weave Baluchari sarees was attempted to be revived in the bed of jalas, Benares by late Shri Ali Hasan, a famed Naqshaband of Benares popularly known as Kalloo Hafiz. It was Kalloo Hafiz who attempted the revival and was successful in recreating the splendorous saree of yore. He was the great grandfather of Naseem Ahmad who is the proud keeper of the tradition who today successfully weaves Baluchari panels and sarees apart from traditional Benares brocades.

Specialty of Jala weaving techniqueAccording to Naseem, though Jala technique is the predecessor of the jacquard weaving technique, what sets it apart from jacquard is the degree of flexibility and ease with which diversity of patterns can be created on it as opposed to jacquard. For example, a pallav of a Baluchari saree can be designed with as many as 10 different motifs. Also the jala patterning can be modified and can be changed at a later time too unlike the jacquard weave where large motifs and patterns cannot be done on one piece and thus it works out very expensive. Also once made, changing the jacquard pattern is not possible. Also in the jala technique, one can use more colours and designs that last a lifetime.

Technique of Jala looms for weaving Baluchari sarees

In this technique of weaving, the design is first drawn on paper which is then converted into designs on the machan using threads. This is used as the master design used as a reference copy and is taken onto the loom. This way even if the jala on the loom gets spoilt, another copy can be made using the master jala and the design can be replicated as many times as possible.

Characteristics of Baluchari silk sareesBaluchari sarees are characterised by beautiful pallav which have a large panel in the centre and fine motifs running all around it. What distinguishes these silk sarees from the rest is the fine detailing that goes in their making. The motifs are so fine, they are akin to painting. The alternate colour combination used in motifs adds to the beauty of the saree. The making of the jala for such a piece and translating the pattern on to the machan takes about four months if worked on continuously, while the weaving takes up to one and a half months. It is no wonder then that the magic of traditional weave of Baluchari sarees is looked upon highly by the users as well as by the other weaver communities.

Ankur Modi is a Social Media Consultant and Blogger. I love to write on Handloom textile industry. Follow me to get updates on Indian Handloom Sarees