Sparkling Jamdhani cotton punjabi suit

Jamdani (jam means flower and dhani, vase or container ) are among the finest muslin textiles of Bengal produced in Dhaka District, Bangladesh. Fine Dhaka jamdani is often called Dhakaiya jamdani. The historic production of jamdani was patronized by imperial warrants of the Mughal emperors. It adorned royalty and nobility across Asia and the muslim world for centuries. Under British colonialism the Bengali jamidani and muslin industries rapidly declined due to colonial import policies favouring industrially manufactured textiles. In more recent years, the production of Jamdani has witnessed a revival in Bangladesh, with jamdani salwar kameez and saris becoming one of the most prestigious luxury fabrics of South Asia.

Jamdani weaving tradition is of Bengal origin. It is one of the most time and labor intensive forms of weaving hand loom weaving. In the first half of the 19th century, James Taylor described the figured or flowered jamdani, in the late nineteenth century, T.N. Mukharji referred to this fabric as Jamdani muslin.

Whether figured or flowered, jamdani is a woven fabric in cotton, and it is undoubtedly one of the varieties of the finest muslin. It has been spoken of as the most artistic textile of the bangladshi weaver. Traditionally woven around Dhaka, Bangladesh, and created on the loom brocade, jamdani is fabulously rich in motifs. jamdani is a fine muslin cloth on which decorative motifs are woven on the loom, typically in grey and white. Often a mixture of cotton and gold thread were/was used.

Jamdhani is a hand-woven technique that has patterns of various colours and designs on cotton or silk fabrics. It gives an aesthetic appeal, it takes the form of cotton and gold thread weaving to create motifs of geometric patterns and floral designs in colourful hues. The hand weaving jamdhani is necessary for Bengal fabrics. The artisans settled in Bengal and create fine ethnic art and magic of traditional salwar kamiz and saris.

Based on the variations in the Jamdhani weave, fabrics can be termed as Daccai Jamdhani, known for its colourful motifs, the shantipur Jamdhani for its soft texture, the Tangail Jamdhani for its traditional borders and the Dhonekai Jamdani is an inclusion in the making of some of the traditional fabric varieties, as the Banaras, venkatagiri, uppad, Kanchipuram, Dharmavaram and Mysore handlooms.

Though mostly used salwar kamiz and saris, jamdani is also used for scarves and handkerchiefs. Jamdani is believed to be a fusion of the ancient cloth-making techniques of Bengal (perhaps 2,000 years old) with the muslins produced by Bengal Muslims since the 14th century. Jamdhani is the most expensive product of Dhaka looms since it requires the most lengthy and dedicated work.

Jamdani patterns are mostly of geometric, plant and floral designs and are said to originate in Persian and Mughal fusion thousands of years ago. Due to the exquisite painstaking methodology required, only aristocrats and royal families were able to afford such luxuries.

The simply sizzling blue colour jamdani salwar kameez with floral zari buttis all over has thread work and silver zari and floral kundan worked patch border either side. The chunni is a patch border with zardozi and kundan work on it. An exquisite stunner, this dress material would be apt for grand occasions like weddings, parties, social invites and traditional festive occasions.

Prachi.L She is a freelancer long associated with ethnic fabrics, known for her special leaning towards ethnic sarees. She enjoys the privilege of being a part-time consultant to Unnati Silks. S.E-mail her at unnatikaro@gmail.com.