An Engagement Ring Cut is the Most Important ‘C’

Confusingly, an engagement ring cut can have several meanings when applied to diamonds and other gemstones. It can describe the shape of a finished gemstone, for example, a ‘princess cut’ diamond, but the term is also used to refer to a gemstone’s proportion and reflective qualities. This includes factors such as the overall symmetry of a gemstone, the relative size and number of facets, the dimensions and the general quality of the stone’s polish.

Many don’t even think about the cut when they look at engagement rings, but instead they consider the carat weight, the colour, and the shape. The fact that an engagement ring cut plays a large part in determining the price of a stone, as well as the appearance is often overlooked. After all, how well a diamond or gemstone has been made from its rough form determines its brilliance, fire, scintillation and overall sparkle.

When a diamond is well cut, light enters through the table of the gem and travels back to the pavilion where it reflects from one side to the other and then back out of the diamond, through the table and to the observer’s eye. It is this flashing, fiery effect that makes diamonds so mesmerising. However, in a poorly cut diamond, the light that enters through the table leaks out from the sides or from the bottom of the diamond rather than reflecting back to the eye, which means less brilliance. There is sometimes pressure on the cutter to sacrifice appearance for weight as many customers are willing to pay more for a larger, fair-cut diamond than for a slightly smaller, well-cut diamond.

As a result of its fundamental importance, an engagement ring cut is graded by a certification body. The GIA employs a five-point scale ranging from excellent and very good to good, fair and poor, although other laboratories, such as the American Gem Society (AGS), use alternative scales and terminology, such as replacing the term ‘excellent’ with ‘ideal.’ The Ideal Cut generally applies to round diamonds and usually Excellent Cut diamonds have cuts that are equal to any Ideal Cut; both cuts seek to provide maximum brilliance and fire. With the lower grades you can see that the diamond’s proportions have fallen outside the preferred range in order to create the largest possible diamond from the original rough crystal. Diamonds graded very good or good offer an excellent cost saving to customers who want to stay in budget without sacrificing quality or beauty.

The beauty of a diamond depends on the engagement ring cut more than any other attribute, so consider this when weighing up a smaller, better cut diamond with a larger, poorly cut one.

Frederick Holm is staff writer for of the F&L Designer Guides, compiled and written to help consumers choose a unique engagement ring design. From the best engagement ring cut to precious metals and coloured stones, we have ideas and opinions covering all the options. Offering advice, tips and suggestions on how to choose that perfect ring, F&L will accompany you on every stage of your search to find the right designer.

Writer and Online Marketing Manager in London.