Looking for an Antique Engagement Ring Cut?

In the past centuries, diamond cutters used techniques that are no longer common in the 21st century. It was before the time of mass production and often diamonds were cut by hand, which was a laborious and time-consuming process. The result was that the crafted shapes and dimensions of an engagement ring cut were regarded as a window into the character and essence of the particular era they were produced in.

While some of these older techniques may not display as much fire and brilliance as the round brilliant engagement ring cut does, they are sometimes preferred for their warmer, more romantic glow. There has, in fact, been a recent surge of interest in vintage engagement rings, with these old diamond cutting techniques becoming increasingly desirable.

Although diamonds have been around for over 3000 years, it wasn’t until the 11th century that diamonds were first worn, in their uncut form, as adornments, and it was only in the 14th century that it was discovered that a diamond’s appearance could be enhanced. It was at this time that the point cut emerged and this introduced the first symmetrically faceted diamonds to the jewellery world. The single cut, introduced in the late 14th century, which has a large table and octagonal girdle and a bottom edge that tends to be either pointed or flat with normally 18 facets, closely followed this.

A major advance in faceting, in the form of the polishing wheel, brought about the rose cut, also known as the ‘Antwerp rose’, in the 16th century. This engagement ring cut featured a flat bottom with a dome-shaped crown, rising to a single apex. With anywhere between 3 to 24 facets, a rose cut diamond resembled the shape of a rose bud and became very popular during the Georgian and Victorian eras. One of the most famous examples of this is undoubtedly the Great Mogul Diamond, which was said to have weighed 280 carats when it was sighted in the mid-1600s.

The old mine cut dates back to the 1700s and was commonly used during the Georgian and Victorian eras. Considered the earliest form of the modern brilliant cut, it was also called the cushion cut as it has a cushion shaped girdle and was characterised by a high crown, small table, deep pavilion and large culet. Similar to this is the old European cut, which also possesses a high crown, small table and a large, flat culet. It does differ however in the shape of its girdle, which is circular. The old European cut dates back to the 1800s, and mostly featured during the Victorian, Edwardian and Art Nouveau eras. It is considered the predecessor of today’s modern round brilliant cut, with its 58 facets.

Most couples never know how much is out there when it comes to looking for that perfect engagement ring cut, and if you are leaning towards a vintage engagement ring and the history and character that comes with it, you should definitely consider some of these. Be warned though, some originals are extremely hard to find, as many were re-cut after the 1900s in order to increase their value.

Frederick Holm is staff writer for of the F&L Designer Guides, compiled and written to help consumers choose a unique engagement ring design. From the best engagement ring cut to precious metals and coloured stones, we have ideas and opinions covering all the options. Offering advice, tips and suggestions on how to choose that perfect ring, F&L will accompany you on every stage of your search to find the right designer.

Writer and Online Marketing Manager in London.