Ferdinand berthoud régulateur squelette fb rs

Much meaning can be derived from a name. Take the luxury marque, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud for example. The word ‘chronométrie’ can de defined as ‘the science of time measurement’. While many watches display time, the term chronométrie implies a high degree of precision.

Ferdinand Berthoud, the second constituent of the firm’s prestigious name, celebrates the life of one of the most accomplished figures in the world of horology, a man who stands on equal terms with Abraham-Louis Breguet and Antide Janvier.

The marketing mastermind who decided to combine the word chronométrie with the name of the famous scientist and watchmaker is clearly a genius. This three word nomen conveys the notion of exceptional precision and unites it with one of the most revered names in watchmaking history, clearly defining the brand’s positioning.

In 2015, I attended the launch of the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud in Paris and witnessed the unveiling of the Manufacture’s inaugural model, the FB1. From the outset, the Maison signalled to the world’s watch collecting elite its intention to make some of the finest expressions of Haute Horlogerie. The movement featured a tourbillon, a constant-force module and a fusée and chain transmission system. Typically, with most watches, when the mainspring begins to relax, the amplitude drops markedly, thereby impairing precision. By equipping the FB1 with the previously mentioned mechanisms, the amplitude remains constant, thereby delivering incredible accuracy.

Returning to the 18th century, Ferdinand Berthoud, Master Clockmaker at the decree of King Louis XV’s council, spent many years developing a number of remarkably accurate marine chronometers. These horological devices were designed to measure the longitude at sea with incredible precision, a characteristic essential for the safe navigation of the world’s oceans. Berthoud and his English counterparts John Harrison and John Arnold were pioneers in the field of marine chronometers and were incentivised by large prizes offered by the French and British governments.

Today, GPS systems are used for safely navigating the world’s oceans. However, the legacy of Berthoud et al, is that they were responsible for developing highly precise marine chronometers which harness know-how that still remains relevant in the modern era.

Since the release of the FB1 in 2015, the modern-day Manufacture, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, has produced additional models. These include the Chronometer FB 1R, Chronometer FB 1L, Chronometer FB 2RE and a number of special editions. Each model looks slightly different, but shares the same exalted levels of craftsmanship, including sublime finissage as well peerless mechanical virtue.

Now the prestigious brand has released a new model likely to pique the interest of all well heeled connoisseurs, the Ferdinand Berthoud Régulateur Squelette FB RS.

The dial

Appraising the dial of the Ferdinand Berthoud Régulateur Squelette FB RS, there are some elements which are unique to this latest model and some aspects that look reassuringly familiar. For example, just like the Chronometer FB 1R, an openworked dial at noon displays minutes, while an aperture positioned between 1 and 2 o’clock, reveals the prevailing hour. The indications are not only stylish but also prove eminently intelligible. Likewise, the elaborately formed power-reserve indicator shares the same design as the FB 1R.

However, the inverted v-shaped tourbillon bridge is a completely new design. Furthermore, the tourbillon cage is freely shown with no bulky plates hiding the hypnotic motion of the balance wheel rotating to and fro. Indeed, Ferdinand Berthoud has revealed a multitude of components for the delectation of the mechanically inquisitive.

The regulator plate serves as the dial’s epidermis and is enlivened with vertical satin-brushed, black PVD-treated nickel silver. The ultra-prestigious Manufacture has presented the hour values on a rotating sapphire disc which coquettishly peers from behind the regulator plate. A sapphire circlet, marked with a minute track, frames the dialscape and imbues the composition with an airy appearance.

Ferdinand Berthoud has fitted the minutes dial with a blue-toned dagger hand, similar to the inaugural FB 1, albeit in this instance the display eschews an hour hand. Another familiar element relates to the centrally positioned Tourbillon direct-drive seconds, one of several patented features, again used on the FB1.

The blend of old and new proves very shrewd on the part of Ferdinand Berthoud. The FB RS may be the newest addition to the brand’s collection, but all of the brand’s other models remain fresh and timeless. Indeed, the brand has cleverly sidestepped obsolescence which often afflicts many inferior watches. Those details carried over from the FB1 and the FB 1R sit harmoniously with the new design elements.

The case

Often when a watch brand offers a choice of case, it usually extends to the material used or the diameter of the housing. However, it is very clear that Ferdinand Berthoud doesn’t merely follow the approach of others.

Ferdinand Berthoud offers the Régulateur Squelette FB RS with a choice of the brand’s eye-catching octagonal case, first seen with the FB 1 or, alternatively, a round case in 18-carat rose gold, similar to the case of the FB 2RE.2-1. While the octagonal case is formed of ultra-resistant carburised steel, with two sapphire portholes gracing the caseband, representatives from the brand recently hinted that customer requests for alternative materials would be considered. It seems at Ferdinand Berthoud, luxury knows no bounds.

Both case designs measure 44mm in diameter and feature a domed sapphire crystal. The round case is marginally thicker measuring 14.26mm (the height of the octagonal case is 13.95mm), but considering their relative complexity, neither watch seems excessively large. The crown fitted to the Ferdinand Berthoud Régulateur Squelette FB RS proves an ergonomic delight. Its vastness, measuring 9mm in diameter, confers ease of adjustment without appearing unduly cumbersome. An exhibition caseback affords views of the exquisite Calibre FB-T.FC.RS.

The movement

The hand-wound pillar-style movement beating at the heart of this timepiece can only be described as a horological tour de force. Indeed, the composition of the movement blends technical virtuosity with supremely refined finishing.

There are many technical highlights with the Ferdinand Berthoud Régulateur Squelette FB RS. For example, the tourbillon and fusee-and-chain combination deliver two useful benefits. Firstly, the tourbillon counters the adverse effects of gravity on the regulating organ. Secondly, the fusee-and-chain transmission ensures the force supplied to the escapement remains constant, as previously mentioned.

Both the fusée, barrel and power-reserve are suspended, helping to minimise the movement’s depth. The power-reserve employs a cone and feeler system to precisely convey the amount of energy held within the barrel. The Maltese cross stopwork system stops the transmission of force to the escapement when there is insufficient torque to deliver precision.

The variable-inertia balance also enhances precision. Unlike a regular index-adjusted balance, where adjusting the effective length of the hairspring alters the rate, with a variable-inertia balance, the effective length of the hairspring remains unchanged. The rate is adjusted by moving the four gilded nickel silver blocks positioned on the balance wheel. By moving the blocks, or masellotes, the moment of inertia changes, causing the watch to run faster/slower. Beyond the superior precision conferred by a variable-inertia balance, the positional influence of the balance is mitigated and the rate stability is better.

Ferdinand Berthoud has shunned the idea of using a silicon hairspring in favour of using a traditional steel item. This will inevitably please purists and traditionalists alike. The Manufacture has endowed the outer-edge of the hairspring with a hand-shaped Philips terminal curve, thereby enhancing ischronism and, by default, precision.

Perusing the Manufacture’s website, the company claims ‘the machine has no place in Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud. Indeed, one glance at the movement and the handcraftsmanship comes to the fore with bevelling, graining and mirror-polishing much in evidence.

While the PVD-treated bridges exude an air of modernity, they also uphold the traditional finishing techniques. Personally, I adore the arrow-shaped bridge that supports the tourbillon cage. Its surface gleams, courtesy of its mirror polish, sometimes termed black polish as it appears to transition from white to grey to black depending on its prevailing position.

The balance has a frequency of 21,600 vph (3Hz) and the movement contains 49 jewels. The power reserve is 53 hours and the watch is a certified chronometer (COSC).

Closing remarks

The Ferdinand Berthoud Régulateur Squelette FB RS, once again, showcases the expertise of this Maison. Although the Manufacture was inaugurated in 2015, a comparatively short time ago, especially when contrasted with some of Haute Horlogerie’s old guard, it has repeatedly delivered greatness.

Precision is at the epicentre of the brand’s DNA. Numerous aspects of the movement’s design contribute to the model’s impressive accuracy, something which is independently certified by COSC. Studying the specification sheet for this timepiece, I counted at least four features that are patented, underscoring the Maison’s prowess for innovation.

In terms of craftsmanship and, in particular, finishing, I cannot think of any other brand able to surpass the standards I’ve witnessed at the Manufacture in Fleurier. The brand’s images of an artisan polishing an internal angle with gentian wood merely reinforces the perception that ‘no-compromise’ is a culture alive and well in Fleurier.

Interestingly, the prestigious marque is not limiting production to a specific model, but the number of movements it intends to make. With only 20 movements planned, the would-be wearer has to agonise over which case option to choose. However, I suspect that whichever case is selected, a broad grin will appear on the face of its fortunate owner when delivery day arrives.

At the beginning of this article, I discussed the name of this company at length. What’s in a name? Well, in terms of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, a great deal. Since the Manufacture was inaugurated in 2015, it has released several incredible watches, each worthy of the term ‘Haute Horlogerie’. Indeed, the excellence of these timepieces has also been recognised by the GPHG in 2016, 2019 and 2020. Every element is beautifully considered. Protracted tasks are a way of life. The notion of compromise will never be countenanced by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud, an aspect that I personally find very endearing.

The exalted specification of the Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud Régulateur Squelette FB RS attracts a commensurately high price. Indeed, by its very nature, this model is esoteric, dwelling on a higher plane than most other watches. However, I expect its renown will continue to grow exponentially and become familiar to an increasing number of horophiles. Few people drive a Rolls-Royce, but most people have heard of the company. I am sure that with time, the brand awareness for Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud will enjoy a similar fate.

Escapement is an online magazine owned and operated by Angus Davies and his wife, Heidi Davies.