The Evolution behind your Engagement Ring Cut

There is currently a wide variety of engagement ring cuts, including cushion, emerald, marquise, round brilliant, pear and princess cut. However, the history of the evolution of the cutting of diamonds and other gemstones is an interesting one and may even help you decide on your own engagement ring cut.

The early history of diamonds is a bit of a mystery, although they were certainly known and worn by the Romans. A few Roman rings containing uncut diamonds actually survived and now reside in the British Museum. Originally it was believed that diamonds would protect their owner from misfortune, and that this divine crystal would lose its powers if it were in any other state than the natural one.

After decline of the Roman Empire, however, diamonds disappeared from European jewellery altogether, and India remained the only source of diamonds until the 18th century. It is believed that European diamond cutting originated in Venice shortly after 1330. This is plausible, considering that it was only after 1330, when Venetian merchants opened up trade routes to the East, that diamonds started to appear in Europe again. It is still not clear where diamond cutting originated. Although the import of diamonds from the East could have included cutting techniques, diamond cutting could have just as easily been a European invention.

Jack Ogden, a notable jewellery historian, has seen medieval Islamic jewellery containing simple table cut diamonds, the earliest engagement ring cut, that could have dated back to the 13th century. These would be the oldest known cut diamonds in existence. However, given the technical limitations, diamond cutting would have been at first nothing more than superficial polishing. The 15th century saw the introduction of continuous rotary motion in craft tools which allowed facets to be ground into diamonds with greater ease. This greatly expanded the possibilities and triggered more creativity and a wider variety of cuts.

By the end of the 15th century, diamond cutting had been transformed; the crystal shape was no longer deemed holy, and cutting techniques improved, resulting in more creative cuts. Considerable developments in the 16th century led to a shift from mere polishing to genuine ‘faceting’, and another early engagement ring cut emerged, the rose cut, along with an improved version of the table cut, which received extra facets on both the crown and the pavilion.

Similarly, the introduction of cleaving diamonds in order to shape them prior to faceting and polishing is also believed to have its origins in the 16th century. Although the breaking up of diamonds into sharp fragments to be used for engraving has been known since antiquity, and a 13th century Islamic publication actually mentions the perfect cleavage in diamonds, the actual use of cleaving in gem cutting appears to be a post-medieval invention. By the end of the 16th century, European cutters had mastered all the stages in diamond cutting as we know it today – cleaving, sawing, grinding and polishing.

Although some of our modern engagement ring cuts only emerged recently, like the princess cut, the evolution of cutting diamonds is an incredible one, especially given the tools that were available in earlier times. A lot of cuts used today have their origins during this transformation.

Frederick Holm is staff writer for of the F&L Designer Guides, compiled and written to help consumers choose a unique engagement ring design. From the best engagement ring cut to precious metals and coloured stones, we have ideas and opinions covering all the options. Offering advice, tips and suggestions on how to choose that perfect ring, F&L will accompany you on every stage of your search to find the right designer.

Writer and Online Marketing Manager in London.