The Fascinating History behind an Engagement Ring Cut

As an engagement ring cut, the marquise is not as popular as the princess cut or round brilliant – although it did see a rise in popularity between the 1960s and 1980s - but there are many who admire this traditional yet sophisticated look. The marquise diamond actually has an interesting history, as the inspiration for this singular cut apparently dates all the way back to the French Renaissance. The marquise cut was first said to appear in Paris in the middle of the 18th century under the rule of King Louis XV. The legend goes that King Louis demanded that a diamond be cut in a way to resemble the smile of Jean Antoinette Poisson, the Marquise de Pompadour, who was his official maitresse en titre between 1745 and 1750. The shape was then developed and modified throughout the 20th century and evolved into the marquise brilliant cut, as it is known today.

The marquise brilliant cut is sometimes also referred to as the ‘navette’, which literally translates as ‘little boat’, because marquise diamonds are often said to resemble a boat. It is generally comprised of 58 facets, with 33 facets on the crown and 25 on the pavilion, although the number of pavilion facets may range between 4 and 8. Occasionally a marquise diamond is criticised for being too thick or too thin, but ideally, the length to width ratio should be 2:1.

One thing a potential buyer should remember when considering this engagement ring cut is the bow tie effect, which is very common with marquise diamonds. Sometimes you will see dark shapes across the middle of the diamond; these shapes are said to look like a bow tie. However, in a well proportioned diamond, the bow tie effect should be less noticeable. The pointed ends of such an engagement ring cut will also need to be protected as the diamond could be damaged or chipped.

The marquise diamond is considered to be the diamond of choice for royals, as indicated by its history, and has consequently always been popular as an engagement ring cut. Marquise cuts are also a lot more affordable than the other diamond cuts, despite the fact that the shape and structure of the diamond will make it appear larger than it actually is. Unlike the traditional round stone, this distinctly feminine cut also has the advantage of making the finger of the wearer appear more slender, as well as longer. It seems likely that that this regal and elegant cut will only grow in popularity.

Frederick Holm is staff writer for of the F&L Designer Guides, compiled and written to help consumers choose a unique engagement ring design. From the best engagement ring cut to precious metals and coloured stones, we have ideas and opinions covering all the options. Offering advice, tips and suggestions on how to choose that perfect ring, F&L will accompany you on every stage of your search to find the right designer.

Writer and Online Marketing Manager in London.