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Best Vitamin C Serum: How to Choose and How to Use

Author: Derma Essentia
by Derma Essentia
Posted: Sep 12, 2021

Vitamin C is a well-known, well-studied and proven effective component for a long time. Following acids and retinol, it is included in the gold standard in dermatology.

From this article, you will find out why vitamin C is needed in cosmetics and properly use and which is the best vitamin c serum.

Why do you need vitamin C in cosmetics?

Vitamin C is a truly multifunctional component. As part of cosmetics, vitamin c in serum can exhibit the following activity:

  • Fight free radicals - vitamin C has the strongest antioxidant properties;
  • Stimulating collagen synthesis in the dermal layer is a clinically proven anti-ageing component;
  • Reduce hyperpigmentation and improve complexion - vitamin C can inhibit tyrosinase activity;
  • Strengthen the walls of blood vessels - it has a positive effect on the skin with rosacea;
  • Support local immunity - vitamin C enhances the protective potential of the skin.
  • Promote Natural Hydration - It helps prevent skin dehydration.

To unleash the full potential of vitamin C Serum, we recommend choosing a serum as the most concentrated product rather than a cream. And use it every day for at least 2-3 months.

What types of vitamin C exist in Serum

Topical vitamin C can be divided into two large groups:

  • Acidic or Unstable - Ascorbic Acid;
  • Not acidic or stable - Ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, Ascorbyl sodium phosphate, Ascorbyl glucoside, Ethyl-ascorbic acid, etc.

Let's briefly consider the features of the main types of vitamin C that are found in serums.

Ascorbic acid (L-Ascorbic Acid) is the most unstable and the only acidic form of vitamin C. It is water-soluble. Works at pH not higher than 3.5. It quickly oxidizes when exposed to air, light, heat. Works best with lightning pigmentation. Due to the low pH, the product may irritate the skin.

Sodium Ascorbic Phosphate (SAP) is a stable form. Due to its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, it can be used to treat skin with acne. Doesn't cause irritation. Effective in low concentrations.

Ascorbyl Glucoside is a stable form. It is active in low concentrations. It has moisturizing and brightening properties.

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate) is a stable form. Works over a wide pH range. Doesn't irritate even very sensitive skin. It is a potent tyrosinase inhibitor.

9 tips for using a Best Vitamin C Serum for face

For the best vitamin C serum to be of the only benefit, it must be used correctly. For your convenience, we have prepared basic recommendations:

In the morning or evening?

While there is no hard and fast rule, the best time for a vitamin serum is in the morning. In this case, vitamin C will protect the skin from the harmful effects of free radicals all day. BUT!

This rule works for a serum with an ascorbic acid concentration of 15% or less. If the concentration is higher, then it is better to use the product in evening care.

Dry or wet skin?

The ascorbic acid serum should be applied to dry skin to reduce the potential irritation of the acidic form of vitamin C. If your skin is sensitive, you can first apply a base moisturizing or revitalizing toner.

It would help if you waited until it is completely absorbed. And for maximum effect, vitamin C should be applied "closer to the skin", that is, immediately after cleansing, on dry skin.

At the same time, a serum with stable vitamin C works better on moisturized and even slightly damp skin.

Important to remember! If the serum contains the acidic form of vitamin C, wait 15-30 minutes and apply the cream. If vitamin C is stable, you can use face cream right away. Face cream can be replaced with sunscreen during the daytime if you only get enough moisture from it.

Do you need SPF, or can you do it?

A broad-spectrum sunscreen should be in your care if:

  • Your serum contains acidic vitamin C (the same story with acids and retinol);
  • Your skin is prone to photo pigmentation;
  • You are the owner of 1 or 2 phototypes;
  • The UV index is higher than 3.
  • You want to keep your skin youthful and healthy.
5%, 10%, 15% or 20%?

It is better to start with a small percentage - 5-10% for sensitive skin and the first acquaintance with ascorbic acid. If the skin is dense, not reactive, or is already ready for more active action, you can switch to the 15% version. Acidic vitamin C in a concentration of 20% and above already works as a peeling agent and is not recommended for thin, sensitive and problem skin.

Exfoliate your skin before or not?

To avoid possible irritation, it is better not to use enzyme powder, scrub, peeling roll, acid toner, retinoids before applying vitamin serum. It is strictly forbidden to apply benzoyl peroxide, as it oxidizes vitamin C. At the same time, it is perfectly acceptable to use any of these agents in the evening.

Store in light and warm or refrigerate and dark?

Ascorbic acid is very unstable. Therefore, it is so important to store it in a cool, dark place after opening. After each use, put the serum in a cardboard box (yes, do not throw away the package right away) and place it on the shelf in the refrigerator.

Stable vitamin C serum can be stored in a room but away from direct sunlight and heating appliances, as well as all other cosmetics.

Is the result immediately, or do you need to wait?

Effects that can be seen immediately after application: freshness, toning, sometimes radiance.

Effects that appear after 3-8 weeks of regular use: lightening of pigmentation, smoother complexion, improvement of micro relief.

About the Author

We all are stuck at home due to this coronavirus all other shops and beauty parlors are closed because of this pandemic. But don't worry you’ll get more time to take care of skin and hair care at home during this lockdown period.

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Author: Derma Essentia

Derma Essentia

Member since: Jun 21, 2019
Published articles: 70

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