Breguet tradition 7035

Breguet flipped the script when it launched the Tradition collection in 2005 with the inaugural model 7027. Constructed with the movement on the dial side of the watch, it was the first timepiece to revive this concept for the modern era.

The Tradition line is inspired by Abraham Louis Breguet’s subscription (souscription) watch, which was launched in 1797. One of the most renowned horologists in Europe, Breguet created masterpieces for the great and the good, including King George III, Queen Victoria, Alexandre I of Russia and Napoléon Bonaparte. As you can imagine, these luxurious works of kinetic art cost an aristocratic sum, out of the reach of most.

To expand his clientele, Breguet introduced a more affordable proposition, now known as the subscription watch. The reason the watch is called a subscription piece is because that’s how Breguet described them in the sales ledgers. Costing £600, a quarter of the sum of the watch was due as a down payment upon subscribing, with the balance paid upon delivery. About 700 pieces were made and cased in either gold or silver. The talented watchmaker Peter Speake gives an in-depth look into the subscription watch from the inside out.

Upon first glance at the subscription watch, which is actually a pocket watch, you might think you’re looking at the wrong inspirational piece. However, once the beautifully symmetrical movement is revealed, all becomes clear.

Breguet’s Tradition watches bring the movement to the fore, putting it on display where it also functions aesthetically as the dial. The majority of the models feature a barrel centred in the middle, with the chapter ring at the top of the dial counting off the hours. Part of the going train is also exposed, along with the whirl of the balance wheel. Many versions of the Tradition include the pare-chute shock absorption system conceived by Breguet to protect the balance wheel from jolts.

With the 7035, the Tradition gets a lively feminine touch with a sparkly array of diamonds studding the 18K gold dial/movement. Breguet shows its skill in the art of gem setting with its use of a snow setting in the composition. Much more tedious than pavé, each stone, no matter what size, must sit flush with its neighbours in order to hide the metal, giving the impression of glittering snow. The natural colour of the rubies in the movement are used to good effect, adding a colourful pink pop to the proceedings.

To mark the swing of the retrograde seconds, rubies and pink sapphires complement the colour scheme. Situated at the top of the dial, a chapter ring in a lustrous natural mother-of-pearl ticks off the hours and minutes with 18K rose gold, open-tipped Breguet hands.

Clad in an 18K rose gold case with fluted bezel and embedded with brilliant-cut diamonds, the Breguet Tradition 7035 comes in a nicely sized 37mm diameter. It secures to the wrist with a reddish pink leather strap, matching the rubies and pink sapphires. The rose gold pin buckle is also set with diamonds.

The 7035 gets its power from the Calibre 505J. This automatic movement continues the motif of the engraved flower on the barrel with the same decoration on the rotor.

With the debut of the Tradition 7035, Breguet has created a watch that’s not only a jewellery piece but also one with interesting mechanics. Limited to an edition of 88, this new member of the Tradition family offers a rendition of a classic that lives up to its history.

Escapement is an online magazine owned and operated by Angus Davies and his wife, Heidi Davies.