Why Diamond Engagement Ring Cuts Are So Important

Before starting to look for an engagement ring it's a good idea to familiarise yourself with the most important aspect of the ring: the different type of cuts or shapes available for diamonds.

The cut of the stone determines how much fire and radiance the diamond emits, and also shows how well the diamond has been polished. Somewhat confusingly, the diamond’s shape can also be termed as the cut. It determines the type of setting and is a personal choice, resulting in a vintage style or a more contemporary engagement ring. Cuts can make a lower grade diamond appear flawless to the eye, but a badly cut diamond can cause it to look dull and lifeless, even if it is flawless in its natural state.

It’s All About the Cut

When you first encounter the terms for the many different diamond cuts, it can be slightly overwhelming. There are twelve possibilities to choose from for engagement ring cuts or shapes, each with their own beauty and characteristics. The first and most popular is the round 58-facet cut, which gives the maximum sparkle; these diamonds are independently certified and given a grade that denotes the quality of cut. The brilliance of the other eleven cuts is assessed more subjectively, so it is important to know the type of ring you are looking for.

Square and Rectangular

The second most popular is the princess cut, where the diamond is square or rectangular but with the brilliance of a round cut. It displays a contemporary beauty with the added advantage of a lower price than a round cut.

The cushion, another square or rectangular cut, is a more antique style; while not as brilliant as the round and princess cuts, cushion engagement ring cuts are considered very romantic. They gleam and sparkle in candlelight and look fantastic within vintage-inspired settings.

The asscher and the emerald cut are both elegant step cuts; they have less fire and sparkle but are more transparent. For this reason it is important to choose a higher quality diamond as any flaws or imperfections in colour are more visible to the eye than with other cuts. This is especially important for the asscher cut as the eye is drawn into the diamond.

The square or rectangular cut is renowned for its radiance, and is a lovely choice for engagement ring cuts. It brings together the sparkle of the round cut with the elegance of the emerald cut.

Flattering Shapes

There are also more unusual shapes such as the pear or oval. These are flattering to smaller hands and make fingers look longer; their cut is a modification of the round 58 facet so they have a similar fire and brilliance. The heart, which is a less common choice for engagement rings, is a modification of the pear cut, so it too has a lot of fire and sparkle. Finally in this quick look at the various engagement ring cuts is the marquise. Like the pear cut, it can make a smaller diamond appear larger when seen from the top. It really stands out, and for this reason it is important to choose a diamond with good colour and clarity. An important aspect to look for in the pear, oval, heart and marquise cuts is what is termed the ‘bow-tie effect’ - when a shadow is cast over the central facets due to the way it has been cut.

There is a lot to consider when choosing wedding jewellery and knowing the different cuts and their qualities before you start, and knowing how much of an impact they make upon the finished ring, may make the whole process slightly easier.

Frederick Holm is staff writer for the F&L Designer Guides, compiled and written to help consumers choose a unique engagement ring design. From the best engagement ring cuts to precious metals and coloured stones, we have ideas and opinions covering all the options. Offering advice, tips and suggestions on how to choose that perfect ring, F&L will accompany you on every stage of your search to find the right designer.

Writer and Online Marketing Manager in London.