The Different Treatments used on Emerald Engagement Rings

A lot of precious gemstones, from diamonds and sapphires to less desired stones, are treated, so it is not considered anything new. This is especially the case with natural emeralds, given that they tend to be more heavily included than other gemstones, with numerous inclusions and fractures. As a result, you’ll find most emerald engagement rings are treated to improve their clarity and, in fact, some estimates actually suggest that as many as 95-99 percent of emeralds are treated.

Cedar Wool Oil

This custom of improving the appearance of emeralds started many centuries ago when the Greeks began using colourless oils. This oil was meant to fill in the natural cracks and fissures which would improve the way light passed through the stone, and this practice remains extremely popular today. The use of colourless cedar wood oil is the most widely practiced and accepted method of improving the appearance of emeralds, and while it is not permanent, it is fairly stable. You can generally expect most emerald engagement rings to be treated with oil, but be warned: after many years of daily wear, some of the oil can evaporate or leak from the stone, so you may have to get your ring retreated.

Epoxy As with oil, epoxies are used to fill the natural cracks and fissures that occur in emeralds. However, this treatment is considerably less popular and less desirable than the cedar oil treatment. When applied correctly, epoxies can greatly improve the appearance and clarity of a stone. Sometimes, though, the technique is used to deceive a buyer, so be careful to choose a reputable jeweller when looking at emerald engagement rings.

Gematrat

Developed in 1997, this particularly treatment is an attempt to permanently treat emeralds and solve the disadvantage that comes with using cedar oil. Gematrat has been defined as ‘gemstone branding’ and involves the very extensive cleaning of a stone which can sometimes take weeks or even months. The stone’s inclusions and fractures are then filled with the colourless Gematrat substance to stop leaking or discolouration.

Palm Resin

Palm resin, also known as Palma, is similar to the cedar wood oil treatment and is a type of oil-like plastic treatment. However, while it is still occasionally used, this treatment is not generally considered acceptable as it is neither stable nor permanent and can leave a milky-white residue, so try to steer clear of any such treated emerald engagement rings.

Frederick Holm writes for the F&L Designer Guides, which hosts a thriving community of independent engagement ring designers in the UK. Inspired by their journey of discovery in search of distinctive, one of a kind emerald engagement rings, F&L now celebrates the works of their favourite designers and helps promote the notion of "Go Bespoke" as a more imaginative and interesting alternative to the limitations of High Street shopping.

Writer and Online Marketing Manager in London.