Issa Lish on Why There Aren’t More Models From Mexico

Issa Lish on Why There Aren’t More Models From Mexico, Working With Steven Meisel, and More

the course of a year, Issa Lish has gone from promising new face to one of fashion’s most photographed women. Her distinctive look is emblematic of the current preference for beauty that represents originality rather than cookie-cutter perfection. Angular, androgynous, and ethnically ambiguous, Lish is a photographer’s dream, and has been embraced by several of the industry’s key image-makers—from Steven Meisel, who transformed Lish into a modern Shelley Duvall for Vogue Italia’s cover, to David Sims, who placed her alongside names like Adriana Lima and Kendall Jenner for his evocative Marc Jacobs campaign.?In person, Lish is far from the edgy persona she projects in editorials. Soft-spoken and upbeat, the Mexico City native is more inclined to chat about contemporary art than designer wares. Her passion for art informs her career in front of the camera, making her especially attuned to the needs of the artists she works with. Catching up with the charming Lish, we talked about her spectacular season, diversity in fashion scouting, and the interaction between fashion and art.

Was modeling something you’d considered before being approached?

In the beginning it was more like, well, there’s this opportunity and I’m just going to try it out to see how it goes. I was approached many times when I was growing up, but it wasn’t until I was a little older that I decided to take the chance.

You were in art school up until recently. What was your focus?

I was in art school studying painting and drawing. My uncle used to be an artist, so growing up I would always be in his studio, and I guess it kind of made me a visual person. I’m very interested in images, and that is part of the reason why I like modeling and fashion. In school I did a lot of drawing, but if I were to go back now, I think I’d focus more on sculpture.

Why sculpture?

I did some [sculpture] in school, but just for exams. Recently I’ve been visiting more museums in the cities I travel to, and there are just so many artists right now that I admire. I enjoy the way they’re using art to critique globalized society and some of the values that Western society has placed importance on. Someone like, say, Jeff Koons has really used his work to comment on fame, media, and America in general.

How would you say art and fashion interact?

Both are very visual, both involve the creation of something new and innovative. There are many fashion collections that have been inspired by art, so they’re intertwined. I think that makes it fun for consumers, as well—if you buy a bag that has the print of an artist, you may get interested and then follow the artist. It can introduce you to a whole new thing you may not have known about before.

What’s been the high point of this journey for you?

It’s no one thing, it’s more like where I was a year ago to where I am now, more of a combination of all the work that has allowed me to slowly build something for myself. I’m actually able to live off working as a model, so I would say that’s the highlight of my career. Getting to the point where I am now has been such an experience.

Where are you from originally?

I was born and raised in Mexico City, but my dad is 100 percent Japanese. So I’m half-Japanese, half-Mexican.

There aren’t as many high-fashion models from Mexico, compared with places like Brazil or Russia. Why do you think that is?

I think people have this very literal idea of what Mexico is, based on what they’ve been taught. People assume we’re all short and, like, we live in the sand with donkeys. It’s a complete stereotype, but people still believe it and it affects things like scouting. People don’t bother to scout there because they think like, "Oh, it’s not a country where tall women are." Meanwhile, there are so many beautiful people in Mexico.

This season you did so many great shows—was there anything that made it special for you?

I would say it was just getting shows that I didn’t get last season and getting to build relationships with people that I didn’t know. For example, the Alexander Wang show was a big deal for me because I always wanted to do it, but I never got the opportunity to do it until this season, so I would say that was a big accomplishment for me. Or Givenchy, which I’ve wanted to do since my first season—sometimes the timing’s not right, but this season it was perfect.

Has walking all these new shows had any impact on your personal style?

I think it’s made me spend a little more for quality, just to get things like the right tailoring and the right fabrics. I appreciate that more. The pants you get from Saint Laurent are just a whole different level of quality compared with the pants you might buy at a mall—the fit is better, the feel is better. I’ve been investing in more designer pieces for that reason.

Steven Meisel has really championed you. What is it like working with him?

He’s amazing and has been amazing to work with since the very first job. People say "the great Steven Meisel," but you truly don’t understand it until you’re on set. When I first started, I didn’t really know much about which photographer was who or why they were so famous, but once I did the shoot with Steven for Vogue Italia, the first big shoot that I was put into, I understood why he’s such a legendary photographer. It’s not only because his pictures are beautiful, but also he and his team create an environment that is indescribable.

With each shot, he brings out your essence, which is something that not a lot of photographers can do. He brings your inner beauty and shows your personality through the images, but he doesn’t just tell you, "Stand there and be yourself." He knows exactly what he wants and what kind of image he wants to create. It’s like acting, just because of the fact that he makes you get into a character. That character can be you, it can be someone glamorous, or it can even be a girl running from a killer. I would say he’s an amazing person in all aspects—very talented, very kind, super-generous.

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