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A recollection of the not so typical fashion month AW/2016
Posted: Mar 04, 2016
The month of February also known as Fashion Month is the industry’s first biannual time slot that showcases the Autumn-Fall collections in a series of presentations and trade shows of both mens and womenswear. They are directly platformed to the press + bloggers and buyers with the designer's visions for fall/winter 2016.
This year the month began with a series of fashion weeks. The men took the lead and a standalone sophomore season was held February 1-4 at Skylight Clarkson North where over 41 brands and designers presented their collections. This was a much needed "boon" that came as a result of the collaboration between menswar designers and the CFDA —since 2014 they have been taking a more substantial approach and support to American men’s fashion.
On the heels of mens fashion week came womenswear fashion week, where New York designers – and a few out-of-towners – unveiled their collections. The shows and presentations took place in various areas of town at such venues as Spring Studios, Skylight Group including IMG’s NYFW: The Shows, MADE at MILK Studios, Pier 59, and others. The Women’s Schedule featured 147 designers, with 97 runway shows and 50 presentations.
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Some of the strongest collections came from designers like Rodarte where patterns and fabrics mixed into a perfect imperfection. The power coat was made haute at Delpozo under the helm of Josep Font who’s designs for the fashion house reflect his architectural training and couture savor faire. Supremacy was reached at Marchesa’s royal affair. Since their spring 2011 there hasn't been that much intensity as it was shown in this collection. The silhouettes, music and show set of Naeem Khan provided a fresh take to a designer who’s materials of choice are very often expected but never a disappointment.
An elegant and sophisticated aesthetic was kept true to the house of Carolina Herrera. Light and luxurious fabrics were seemly within each garment making them flow down the runway in a natural form. Karlie Kloss opened and closed the show and fashion’s darling Giovanna Battaglia was the stylist.
At Calvin Klein interesting technics were used, such as animal prints printed on fabric which later were accessorized with quartz details on the garments.
While some designers like Johnathan Simkai and Yuna Yang continued to gather presence, Monse and Brandon Maxwell governed the spotlight. Monse with it’s unique and effortless vision is designed by Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, the duo who for almost a decade leaded Oscar De La Renta’s design team. Brandon Maxwell the very tailored brand that bares the namesake of the designer has been Lady Gaga’s stylist for a very much while. This two fresh and delightfully talented brands are now being sold at Canada's Hudsonbay and New York's Bergdorf & Goodman.
Daring Marc Jacobs had a similar setting to the Dior’s Haute Spring shows in Paris —the "goth with a mix of Marc" collection dared you to do just what fashion’s core is about — fantasize! Marc Jacobs was the official closing show of the week.
Other notable presentations were the Art Heart Fashion shows and the Sies Marjan debut —- the young designer who’s showroom has taken over the former palaces of Ralph Rucci staged a runway show worth of exploration into a not so expected vision. Ralph Rucci also made headlines as he himself made a come back with RR331—his initials plus the number of steps in the Japanese chad tea ceremony that informed his previous brand name, Chado Ralph Rucci. The collection will sure be curator’s favorite.
Yeezy’s vision was on point perhaps for an art exhibition —sadly the financial support, time slot/venue, models and the hair & make up talent could have been put to better use in the aid of emerging talent. Indeed it was a fashion presentation but what is that without fashion?
As the week unfolded several things became more clear. The fact that men’s fashion in America is exiting it’s renaissance stage and entering it’s staple spot was one. The lock or there of risk taking by designers was obvious and even pointed out by Anna Winter and having a designated location for Fashion Week is important but off sites shows are just as important as after 20 shows per day, the second day of the week can look and can feel as a routine and fashion, specially american fashion is anything but boring.
At last market week rolled in with personal buyer appointments at showrooms and trade shows like TRENOI New York and COTERIE, a premier global marketplace that bridges women apparel and accessories designers to the international retailers held at The Javits Center.
Although worthy parties such as The Amfar Gala remained notable, it was clear that this season was more about the clothes and less about the party. As things winded down on the net-a- porte side, Bridal came in leaping onto March and so it was Fashion month and more.
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Life consists not in holding good cards, but in playing well those you hold. keep your friends close,but your enemies closer.