A Mix of Silk and Cotton Appeal in Gadwal Sarees

The saree is the traditional attire of Indian women. The gadwal sari is a traditional sari made in Gadwal, Mahbubnargar district, India. They are popular for their zari saris. The local weavers are talented and weave the 5.5 meters of saree fabric in such a way that it can be folded down to the size of a small match box. Gadwal sarees have been very popular since the 1930s. These are cotton sarees with an attached silk border and silk pallow.

Gadwal is also famous handloom jari sarees (Gadwal sarees). The local weavers are talented enough to weave the 5.5 meters of saree fabric in such a way that it can be folded down to the size of a small match box. These are cotton sarees with an attached silk border and silk pallow for Lord Venkateswara TTD Brahmotsavam starts with Gadwal weaved Gadwal saree by every year.

There is a famous fort from his era. Gadwal also has a sri Jamla Devi Temple, considered a divine place by many local residents. These are cotton sarees with an attached silk border and silk pallu. Gadwal handlooms are well known for durability of the colours used in the yarn. The mixture of colour gives the durability. Usually Gadwal handlooms are made in cotton and silk. The count used in weaving gives the softness and hardness of the fabric.

Count means the number of threads used in the length and breadth for weaving known as warp and weft respectively. Each and every thread of the Gadwal saree is hand woven. Each weaver works from home with all his/her family helping in different steps of the process.

It requires approximately 4-8 days (depending on the variety of saree) of continuous efforts of two persons for weaving a saree. The core materials used for manufacturing the saree are silk/cotton and zari. The silk border is either Tussar or mulberry and the body is often of unbleached cotton. It may also have colored cotton or silk checks. Pure silk versions of Gadwal Sarees are also available.

Dyeing is the coloring process by dipping the yarn in the bolied color water in very high temperature, higher the temperature durability of color is also higher. Dyeing of the yarn is done making sure that the color is done uniformly throughout the yarn and it doesn’t affect the quality of the yarn. The coloring process is a very crucial step in getting a good saree.

After the silk yarn is dried, it is rolled over small sticks. After dyeing and drying the yarn it is converted to thread and is loaded as warp and then it is loaded into the loom for actual weaving. Gadwal Sarees are traditionally woven in the interlocked-weft technique (called Kuppadam or Tippadam locally) and often with Kotakomma (also called Kumbam) in the borders and they are known as a Kotakomma or Kumbam saree.

The design required on the saree is initially drawn in a computer and then this is punched into a card and then these cards are loaded in Jacard in the loom. The needles in the jacard will control the weft being weaved, thus producing the design in the fabric.

Prachi.L She is a freelancer long associated with ethnic fabrics, known for her special leaning towards ethnic sarees. She enjoys the privilege of being a part-time consultant to Unnati Silks. S.E-mail her at unnatikaro@gmail.com.