Holidays in Sardinia – Discovering the Domus de Janas

Holidays in Sardinia are particularly enjoyable for people with an interest in history, as the island's long account of human habitation is diverse and well-attested in surviving sites. An example is the Domus de Janas (meaning ‘house of the fairies’). These are over one thousand prehistoric rock-cut tombs in various locations on the island, built from 3400 BC to 2700 BC by people of the Ozieri and Beaker cultures. Skeletons have been found in them, painted in ochre and entombed with jewellery, tools and objects from day-to-day life. Two of the finest sites are at Anghelu Ruju and Sant’Andrea Priu, with further tombs to be seen at Su Crucifissu Mannu and Lotzorai.

Anghelu Ruju

The site at Anghelu Ruju encompasses thirty-seven of these burial chambers, unearthed during the 20th century. The structure of the tombs is visible in the entrances, steps, connected chambers, alcoves and surviving detail-work of bulls’ heads and geometric figures. Some were used for mass burial, but many had individuals entombed within. Located near Alghero airport on the Porto Torres road, Anghelu Ruju is conveniently located for an excursion. Further along the road is Museo e Tenuta Vitivinicola, which focuses on viticulture but also holds replicas of some items found in the tombs.

Sant’Andrea Priu

Sant’Andrea Priu, at Bonorva, is another important assemblage of Domus de Janas and a recommended destination to visit while on holidays in Sardinia. There are twenty tombs at the site, one of which is remarkable for having eighteen chambers – it is one of the most spectacular Domus de Janas known. Early Christians converted it into a church, using this charged space for their services. Christian frescoes remain visible. At the top of the ridge housing the tombs is a curiously shaped rock, known either as ‘the bell tower’ or ‘the scared bull’.

Su Crucifissu Mannu

A little out of the way, but conveniently near the even older megalithic structure of Monte D'Accoddi, the tombs at Su Crucifissu Mannu are a good addition to the itinerary of holidays in Sardinia for the archaeological enthusiast. Some of the chambered structures are still visible and can, in fact, be entered. Stone bulls’-head motifs decorate a wall. The site is notable for finds of human skulls showing evidence of two trepannings during the person’s lifetime, although the procedure was not always survived the second time.

Lotzorai

Lotzorai, on the east coast of the island, is a pleasant destination to visit on holidays in Sardinia. There are several walks around the area, a medieval fortress called the Medusa Castle, and a complex of Domus de Janas at the locality of Tracucu. The site is 3 km along the road to Talana and Urzulei, with some good tombs; visitors can walk among them, admiring how they were carved into the rock, and go inside to see the chambered structures.

Helen Forbes is from Essential Italy, a company specialising in Italian holiday villas, apartments and hotels. If you’re looking for the perfect villas for your holidays in Sardinia, it can be made so much easier with our help. Our handpicked villas offer distinctive Italian qualities, great comfort and convenience.

Writer and Online Marketing Manager in London.