Duhi Aari Works

The origins of Aari can be traced to the 12th century. First developed by leather workers in the western Indian state of Gujarat, it was used to create embellished footwear. In later years, under the patronage of Mughal emperors, Aari embroidery was done on fine silk and cotton fabrics exclusively by male artisans. Trade with countries like China and England brought in interesting design influences. Royal garments from the 17th century sport rich oriental landscapes as well as European botanical motifs like daffodils and irises, all embroidered using the Aari technique.The Indian subcontinent has a vast tradition of textile savoir faire, with extraordinary weaving, printing and dyeing techniques that go back thousands of years. In the 17th century India’s exotic textiles led to the country being the largest textile economy in the world supplying Europe with fine fabrics and carpets in cotton and silk.

However, with the onset of mechanised production, several of these ancient craft techniques as well as the livelihoods of the artisans who practice them have been under threat. At the very heart of Varana’s mission lies the desire to sustain these techniques by creating a continued relevance for craftspeople who possess truly extraordinary knowledge and skills.

'Aari work' refers to an intrinsic form of artwork done with the shape of a pen-like needle resembling a crochet needle. In this artwork, beads and muthia are imprinted creatively by a sharp edged needle, which gives rise to a chain stitch kind of texture. With its delicate and finest threadwork, this work enhances the essence of hand embroidery.

The Mughal era witnessed the beginnings of Aari embroidery while being fascinated with floral motifs exclusively and by architecture, paintings, and murals as a whole. Natural fabrics with close weaves underwent an artistic influence for the first time. Aari improved the look of a plain fabric and took it to a new level.

Aari work is done by stretching the fabric tightly over a wooden frame to remove uneven folds of the weave and is known as thread work that enhances the gravity of the piece. A craftsman does everything from collecting the finest raw material to selecting the thread that is best suited for the required fabric count. The higher the count, the finer the yarn is and the more exquisite the embroidery would be. The craftsmen primarily follow the time-honored designs which are long stamped into the minds of the people. These designs have an influence on the culture of the land and the flavor of the mood of the crafter as well.

Aari embroidery is primarily known as khatla work. The embroidery is done on a wooden frame that is based on the design of the local khatia or cot. Aari embroidery is believed to originate from Barabanki. In the Kutch region of Gujarat, the Rabari tribe practices a variant of Aari. This too is with the Aari or hooked awl that is generally used by cobblers. The embroidery is in fine chain stitches.

Materials used in aari work

Zari, or the golden metallic thread, is a popular and widely used material in aari work. Multiple colors of good quality cotton or silk yarn threads are also used. This fine embroidery is embellished with Kallavattu, Sitara, Moti or Salma, Dabka, Nakshi, Aara and Gota, beads, sequins, etc.

Few tools are required for this special art. First is the four-cornered frame resembling a cot known as the 'adda' over which the fabric is tightly stretched and bound tightly at the corners. Several skilled workers can sit at different corners and individually work on the design spread on the 'adda'. This speeds up the work and allows early completion. Second is the Aar / Karchop or the needle. It is similar to the one used in crochet work. A pair of scissors to time and again cut the loose hanging threads, after the knots are made.

Aari work process

Tracing is the first step in the process. First, the design that will appear on the fabric is drawn on fine tracing paper. A drawing pin is then used to make small holes all along the lines of the design. The mixture of kerosene and robin blue is rubbed on all parts of the design, keeping it on the desired portion of the fabric. When the mix seeps through the pin holes onto the fabric, the design is now visible. Free handers are able to do it spontaneously with a light marking pencil on the fabric.

The fabric is then tightly drawn over the frame and kept taut on all sides. There is equal tension on both sides. The tightening of the fabric can also be done with a small metal frame if the fabric is smaller.

Afterwards, a needle with a hooked end with zari (gold or silver) or cotton or silk is pushed through the fabric. The result is a chain stitch. Again the needle is pushed through the fabric. The thread is pushed into the hook from behind so that when the needle is pulled up again it comes up with a loop. As the needle is pulled up again it comes up with a loop because the thread is pushed into the hook from behind. This completes a fine small stitch. When the needle goes through the loop and comes up with another loop, it's through the previous loop.